Learn how to prune your roses and make a segment plant
lovers of roses they long for plants with abundant and beautiful flowering. The solution to achieve this can be reduced to two acts: cut the past flowers and prune the rose bushes annually, at the right time. Growth, shape, and flowering varies by species.
From gigantic plants to compact miniatures, those that bloom abundantly only once a year and others that do so for several months. Therefore, it is essential to adopt the pruning regimen of the roses according to the forms of their growths and the category to which they belong.
The major annual pruning, which in the area of the province of Buenos Aires and surroundings is carried out in July to mid-August, allows the development of new stems that, in the future, will be the most productive.
The task of pruning a rosebush sIt should be carried out when the plants are finishing their rest and the buds are “swollen”. If it is done too early, the shoots can be damaged by a possible frost and, on the contrary, if it is done too late, a quantity of stems and foliage that the plant produced with its reserves can be eliminated.
As a general rule, in areas where the climate is benign, it is pruned before; where winters are more severe, it is pruned later.
In the pruning process, there are general guidelines:
Hybrid Tea Rose (Garden Party)
The height that is chosen to prune each plant is an arbitrary decision, unless a disease or damage determines the severe cut.
As usual, lower pruning will produce large stems and flowers, but in smaller numbers. For this kind of rosesit is recommended to remove 2/3 of the height of the rosebush.
The cut should be made at a bevel approximately 5 mm above a bud leading to the outside of the plant. Never over a bud inwards, since the center of the rosebush must be as aerated as possible without crossing stems, for its health and flowering.
Floribunda Rosebush (Cocorico)
The floribundas and bushes should be lowered to only 1/3 of the existing height, except if you want to renew the basal structure of the plant and, in that case, it should be done more severely.
Climbing Rose (Golden Star)
Broadly speaking, there are two categories of roses climbers: those that flower on the stems of the year and those that flower on the stems produced the previous year.
In the first category, which will be pruned every year, are:
In the second category are the lax-stemmed creepers, which mostly bloom on last year’s branches. The regimen of pruning them every two years should be adopted.
The roses climbers need a support to lean on. Whether they flower on the new year’s branch or on the previous year’s branch, they will always make use of a structure or a wall.
The plant must be carefully observed to begin pruning, removing as always what is sick or damaged, the stems that intersect and obstruct the center, the weak branches or the oldest stems.
Three or four strong and young stems will be chosen and, opening them on a trellis, they will be tied to the support, trying to bend them horizontally (to allow the sap to run easily, forcing them to form numerous buds from which a number of vertical stems will sprout with your flowers).
The most important tools a pruner needs to have are:
We can take advantage of pruning to make our own cutting plants. It is a method that allows to obtain a rosebush on its own roots. It has the drawback that you must wait a year for the segment to take root and grow enough to place it in the garden. It is very easy to obtain the rosebush by placing the chosen segment in a good mixture of substrate, with hormone powder for rooting, in a suitable pot.
A quick, simple, basic mix includes: 1/3 peat moss; 1/3 organic matter; 1/3 perlite.
Choice of segment. The best time to cut the segment is when the leaves are already falling, the plant begins to sleep after having matured well during the summer.
Take a stem that is one year old, the thickness of a pencil, and 15 or 20 cm long, with buds even at both ends. All the stingers and the rest of the leaves, if any, are removed. The lower part of the segment is then dipped into the hormone powder and planted in the prepared mix. It can be in a pot or directly in a sheltered corner of the garden.
In the spring it should already present the shoots with leaves, but to transplant you have to wait until the following winter.
Text: Mary Santarelli