Eat, sleep and walk in Esquel and Los Alerces
Few rivers are greener and more extraordinary than the one that passes under the footbridge of the Arrayanes River. The treks and navigations in the Park, the visit to the Welsh landmarks of Trevelin, the tour in La Trochita and the disturbing presence of the Piedra Parada de Gualjaina are some of the attractions of this tour.
skeleton It is the most populated city in western Chubut and the base of services to link very diverse geographies that are surpassed in beauty: Patagonian forest, steppe and even some patches of Valdivian jungle. The heart of this region is the Los Alerces National Park. With its framework of forest, lakes, rivers, streams and high altitude glaciers, is considered by many to be the most beautiful park in the country. It is better to sleep inside to live the full experience, but it is also worth going back and forth during the day and enjoying a bellyful of virgin nature. Then it is convenient to stretch Trevelina city of Welsh lineage 25 km from Esquel and with a small-town air, although in recent years it has sophisticated its offer of inns and restaurants.
Route 259 that crosses the region crosses Chile through Futaleufu and it is one of the most scenic roads in Patagonia: in addition to the superb views of the valley, it witnesses the blooming of colorful tulips when spring arrives and one of the epicenters of the new Wine Route.
Very close to Los Alerces, but outside the protected area, a valuable detour is the one proposed by Cholila. The town is surrounded by lakes such as Lezana, Rivadavia and Mosquito, and the bandit Butch Cassidy and his gang once took refuge there.
A good parenthesis in the forest is a visit to standing stone, in the heart of the Patagonian steppe. You have to go up the RN 40 from Esquel to the north and travel about 65 km of gravel to reach the colossal solitary stone in the middle of the Chubut river valley and discover one of the most curious landscapes in the province, which has recently been listed in the maps.
Huemules Mountain Reserve
23 km from Esquel and 42 km from the airport. T: (2945) 41-3312. High prices
The Hidalgo Solá family inaugurated their tourism enterprise in 2018. The system is all inclusive: four meals, two daily excursions or one full day (horseback riding, mountain biking, trekking) and accommodation in one of its 10 domes. Nine of them have double beds (with the possibility of adding an extra one for children), and the tenth is for three people. Open from November to April.
the berries
Av. Alvear 985. T: (2945) 45-5800
Recently renovated, a boutique hotel with 10 charming and very spacious rooms spread over two floors. There is an elevator.
White Peaks
1683 Ameghino Ave. P: (2945) 45-5200
On the main avenue, a very comfortable traditional inn with 20 rooms, a restaurant, a spa and a parking lot.
Hosteria Angelina
Av. Alvear 758. T: (2945) 50-7374
A 30-year classic run by the Scaglioni family, where warmth and personalized treatment are prioritized. There are ten rooms with good value for money. Breakfast is super abundant, a buffet that includes homemade breads, sweets, cheeses, a variety of puddings and the house specialty: apple pie.
Don Chiquino
Rivadavia 901. P: (2945) 68-2886
Sebastián Fredes and his father continue to run this family restaurant, famous for its homemade pasta with regional products, in a still life-style setting. Two recommended are the lamb lasagna and the smoked trout ravioli. All days, mid-day and night.
PIL pil
Sarmiento 799. P: (2945) 45-1127
The young Alfredo Álvarez commands the kitchen of this restaurant with simple decoration and local flavors. Every day from 9 to 1.
the trochita
P: (2945) 45-1403
In summer, up to two daily departures from Monday to Saturday. The rest of the year, it leaves on Saturdays at 10 (it returns at 13). Check schedules and frequencies on the web. Tickets are purchased on the web, at the station, or at travel agencies in the city. Children under 5 years of age, free of charge (they do not have the right to a seat).
Inn Futalaufquen
Villa Futalaufquen. P: (2945) 47-1008/09
On the shores of the homonymous lake, the historic inn abounds in stone, larch tiles and cypress wood. It has 13 rooms (four of them are converted into apartments) with elegant furniture and Wi-Fi. A few years ago, it added, a few meters away, six cabins for those seeking greater privacy. Non-guests can also stop by to try the succulent tea with homemade cakes, breads and sweets, which are served in front of the fireplace and with a view of the lake. The restaurant offers classics such as lamb and trout, accompanied by a good wine list. Open from October to Easter.
The Aura Lodge
Green lake. T: (11) 5512-2611
Frequented by fishermen, it has two super comfortable cabins in front of the lake, an organized camping site with domes and two restaurants.
Krugger Shelter
T: (2945) 45-7015
Perfect for unwinding, this cypress wood lodge stands on the southern shore of Lake Krugger, where the mighty Frey River rises. It is only accessible by water (70 minutes of navigation) or after a demanding 12-hour trek. You can go for the day or spend the night. Warm and modest, without Wi-Fi or a cell phone signal, it has three bedrooms and a living room with a fireplace. There is breakfast, lunch and dinner service. Apart from that, you have to take everything you need because there is no grocery store or any type of service on the site. It only opens in summer.
Campsite Rio Arrayanes
T: (11) 5152-5381
On the edge of the Arrayanes river, camping plus four domes with beds, wood stove, linens and towels. Grocery store and beach with pier.
Lake Safari
T: (2945) 45-2119/47-1008
From Puerto Limonao, the boats leave for Alerzal with transshipment in Puerto Chucao. In high season, there are usually two daily excursions in the morning, with a guide, but they are not going out due to a conflict with the Parks that should be regularized soon. They also do outings to Lake Krugger. They usually leave at 11am and return at 6:30pm.
southern border
P: (2945) 45-0951
In January and February they have daily kayak trips within Los Alerces National Park. They also organize multi-day expeditions, with overnight stays in campsites, in the Ecodomos they have in Lago Verde or in the Krugger refuge.
La Paz Tourist Village
Route expansion 259 Km 12. Legua 23, School Village Site. T: (2945) 65-0100
With a view of the Futaleufú River, a complex for renting houses and cabins, with a swimming pool, spa, bar, restaurant and outdoor activities. The cabins are very well equipped. The Casas de Río, with a modern design, were inaugurated three years ago. They have 218 m2 on two floors. The spa has a heated pool, indoor and outdoor Jacuzzis, dry and wet saunas, Scottish showers.
South Inn
Sarmiento 301. P: (291) 427-7191
The chef from Bahia, Paula Chiaradia, a finalist in the third edition of the Prix Cuisine de Baron B, is in charge of this small bistro in a historic house, with the air of a village warehouse and noble Patagonian products. On the menu there are tables of cold cuts and smoked meats, good tapas, marinades, Patagonian mushrooms. The bread and focaccia are baked every day and the craft beer, on tap, is from producers in Esquel. Only night. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
Nain Maggie
Expert Moreno 179. T: (2945) 48-0232
One of the first Welsh teahouses in the city. There Lucía Underwood and her family prepare cakes, breads, scones and homemade sweets, following the recipes and advice of her grandmother Margarita (Nain Maggie). Every day from 15.30 to 20.
Trevelin Regional Museum
Old Mill 488. P: (2945) 48-0881
Every day from 11 to 18.
Nant Fach Mill
RN 259 Km 56. T: (02945) 55-0056
In addition to the mill, it exhibits objects from the Welsh pioneers: sewing machines, jukeboxes, mixers, irons and carriages. Every day from 14 to 19.
Nant and Fall waterfalls
Open all year, from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. (until 6 p.m. in winter).
Huancache viewpoint
Route 12 and Marcelo Dromaz. P: (2945) 69-1925/ (221) 642-9098
65 km from the RN 40, from this inn you can explore the Piedra Parada area, either on horseback, trekking or 4×4 rides guided by the owners, Daniel Fermani and Laura Galdámez. There are eight rooms and two cabins, a living room, a library, a park, a swimming pool, a grill and a brand new organic vineyard. This year they added another double room with a bathroom built on the basis of a Welsh cart.
Ruca Kitai
Villa Lago Rivadavia, Quinta 9. T: (2945) 69-0333. W.S.: (11) 5148-2816
Attached to the Carrileufú river, the inn has seven rooms with a deck and armchairs to look at the river and the mountains. It was born from the dream of Hilda and Daniel Kitainik, a couple of psychoanalysts who after 40 years in the profession decided to change the air, and chose this magical enclave in Villa Lago Rivadavia. It has a Health Club and excursions: fishing, boat rides and kayaking on the river, and bike rides. The kitchen is supplied from the own organic garden.
The Legal Bar
RP 71 Km 20.2. T: (11) 5054-7059. Facebook: Museum Bar: LA LEGAL
They receive Nora Jalil and her daughter Carolina Ruiz, in a space dedicated to the history of Cholila and the years that Butch Cassidy spent in the area. They serve snacks, coffee with cakes, sandwiches, puddings and sell pickles, regional and beers. From October, they open every day from 10 to 20.30. In low season, only with reservations. There is WIFI.
Reference-www.lanacion.com.ar