Eat, sleep and walk in Península de Valdés
Welsh colonization and paleontology are the attractions that the province of Chubut adds to the main course of its coasts: marine fauna. It began with a limited season for penguins and whales, and has added killer whales, snorkeling with sea lions, elephants and dolphins.
On the Atlantic coast of Chubut, with its epicenter in the Peninsula Valdes, one can take a bellyful of fauna. Everyone agrees that the best time to visit the area is from the end of September to the first half of November. It is the ideal time to “cross off the list” the specimens that the calendar has in the region: whales, penguins, elephants and sea lions, killer whales and many birds. All together and at the same time.
When the imposing southern right whale stops drawing all eyes, and moves away from the peninsula between the months of December and June towards other seas, the focus becomes on the colonies of Magellanic penguins and sea elephants, on sea lion colonies, dolphins, groups of orcas that approach the coast in coves and points, and in the terrestrial fauna that is “stable cast”. Then, the thrill of approaching an elephant seal and closely observing the rare snout of the males is discovered; walk alongside graceful penguins, swim surrounded by curious sea lions, or wait with infinite patience and a lot of luck for the arrival of the killer whales, which approach the coast when the tide rises and try to hunt the unsuspecting sea lions in their attack channels. Maras, foxes, peludos, rhea, martinetas and guanacos also appear on the radar. Also, there are beaches. Extensive Patagonian beaches with blue seas that ensure a good share of clear skies and plenty of sun, but also a dose of wind. If you want a bit of Welsh culture you have to include Gaimanand for dinosaurs, Trelew.
More rustic and with fewer services, but with a strong taste of the sea, the sector of Atlantic Patagonia where the town of Shrimp It has the attraction of being a much less visited place, and where tourism is very incipient. The region integrates the three million hectares of the Patagonia Azul Biosphere Reserveincorporated by UNESCO in 2015, within which is the PIMCPA, the Patagonia Austral Coastal Marine Interjurisdictional Park, a pioneer in applying the figure of joint administration between National Parks and a provincial government, in this case that of Chubut. In addition, the Rewilding Foundation works along RP 1 in the future Blue Patagonia Park ─which would cover all the protected areas─ through the creation of access portals that facilitate the visit and the conversion of stays into nature reserves with the purpose of reinforcing and expanding the protection of coastal and marine ecosystems.
Those with more time can go as far as Bustamante Bay. Like Camarones or Cabo Raso, this was a town dedicated to the harvesting of seaweed. Today dedicated to tourism, it summons with its white sand beaches and crystal clear waters, a petrified forest and its own vineyard.
Hotel Territorio by Don
Adm. Brown 3251. P: (11) 5263-3439/0628
Exclusive four-star boutique hotel whose construction is inspired by Patagonian architecture. Most of its 38 rooms face the gulf. It has a spa, bar, restaurant, and large and welcoming spaces.
Hotel Dazzler by Wyndham
bv Adm. Brown 637. T: (280) 447-5753/58
Great view of the New Gulf. It has 95 generously sized rooms spread over nine floors. Excellent king beds, spa and gym, as well as its own restaurant.
The Inn
A. Mathews 2951. P: (280) 488-3467.
Five blocks from the beach, in a quiet area of the city, it has a large green, wooded park with a solarium and heated outdoor pool. Decorated with excellent taste and careful attention to detail, it has an English bar, gym and living room, and a beautiful glass-enclosed breakfast room where the homemade buffet breakfast is served.
the almond tree
Alvear 409. P: (280) 447-0525
Restaurant with a home atmosphere installed in a house whose main protagonist is an almond tree. At its 13 tables, distributed in various settings, Lisandro Aristarain serves a menu geared towards Mediterranean cuisine. Even with a reservation, there may be delays.
The Nautical Canteen
Rock 790. P: (280) 447-1404
A Madryn classic, attended by its owners. Photos of the characters who ate at the restaurant in its 60 years of existence cover the walls. Attentive waiters suggest which seafood or fish dish to try. There are also pastas, meats and minutes.
Scuba Dubai
T: (280) 445-2699
Snorkeling and diving with sea lions.
Madryn Diving
P: (280)456-4422
Snorkeling and diving with sea lions.
Argentina Vision
Av. Roca 536. T: (280) 445-5888
Excursion to Cerro Avanzado.
Landing Museum
Adm. Brown 3777, Indian Bend. T: (0280) 420-6522
On the site where the first Welsh settlers landed, the small museum chronicles the history of the Welsh community and their arrival on the Mimosa ship.
Patagonian Ocean
First descent to the sea and whaling access, Puerto Pirámides. T: (11) 6730-7300
The 11 bright eco-suites, decorated with solid recycled wood furniture, are located on the beach of Puerto Pirámides with ocean views. Recognized with national and provincial awards, the boutique hotel is an example of sustainable development and technology that seeks to reduce the impact on energy and water consumption.
Small Corner
[email protected] High prices
Lodge created by Agustín Ayuso in the family ranch of 10,000 hectares, formerly dedicated to sheep farming. Today they promote flora and fauna conservation projects through the Valdés Peninsula Conservation Foundation. Near Punta Delgada, the activities are guided by biologists who work at the Foundation. Minimum two nights of accommodation. They do not use the phone for reservations.
the cave
First descent to the sea s/n, Puerto Pirámides. T: (280) 446-9528
For more than 12 years, it has mainly offered seafood and fish. Generous portions. The seafood table is highly requested. Closed in low season.
Estancia San Lorenzo
P: (280) 436-9390
Between September and the end of March, its penguin colony is visited. From the estancia’s hull, you leave by car for the coast and take an hour and a half tour among the penguins. They also offer grilled Patagonian lamb.
Bottazzi
First descent to the sea s/n, Puerto Pirámides. T: (280) 449-5050/ 447-4110
Family business that offers southern right whale watching excursions. Starting in September, the last departure is at sunset. Ideal for photographers or for those who want to avoid the hours with the highest demand.
Patagonia Explorers
T: (280) 434-0618/19
Departures for the day (half day and full day) in kayak through the Nuevo Gulf and San José. If it is season, during the navigation whales, sea lions and sea birds can be observed.
The House of the River
Captain Murga 3998. P: (280) 453-8709
Since 2007, this friendly mansion has been operating as an inn, decorated with period furniture. It has three bedrooms and capacity for nine people. They offer home cooked meals with a set menu, and full kitchen for guest use.
FEM
Av. Fontana 140. T: (280) 443-2100
With an avant-garde design, the Egidio Feruglio Museum is a benchmark in paleontology. It has an important team of researchers.
The Mimbres Inn
Farm 211. P: (280) 449-1299/ 503-2676
Attended by its owners, the inn has three independent houses: “Casa Galesa” (more than 100 years old), “Casa Plust” (modern main residence of the inn) and the “Casita” (cabin with two rooms), distant 30 meters from each other, with a total capacity for 25 people. They offer homemade meals in their restaurant.
Ty Gwyn
Jul 9 111. P: (280) 449-1009
A classic for those who travel this area of Patagonia. Since 1974, they have been serving tea with breads, Welsh black cake, cream cake, sweets and fruit tarts.
The Pedral
T: (280) 457-2551. High prices
It allows access to the beautiful beach of Punta Ninfas, and its penguin colony. The Norman helmet dates from 1923 and has an interesting history. Open from September 15 to April 15. On the same date, they enable visits for the day, which include roast lamb.
Adventure Dolphins
T: (280) 467-5741. [email protected] @toninas_delfin_patagonico
Spotting of Commerson’s dolphins with departures from Puerto Rawson.
Antoinette
RP 1 Km 234. T: (280) 420-9900/ (11) 6365-0318
Four modernized rooms and a country restaurant with capacity for 60 people are offered in an old farmhouse with a Patagonian architectural style. From there, visits to the elephant farm (no need to stay) and other excursions are made.
the cape
P: (280) 470-9080. IG: @caboraso
A small town founded in 1900, like its neighbor Camarones, which is 76 km away. This, however, was left abandoned until, in 2006, Eliane Fernández Peña and Eduardo González moved in and converted it into a rustic refuge. chic. They offer accommodation (with or without meals). There is no cell signal.
Shrimp House Patagonia
The stream s/n. T: (11) 5049-9582. [email protected] IG: @casacamarones.patagonia
Spectacular sheet metal house ─in the same architectural language as the rest of the town ─for rent by the architect José Pablo Mehaudy, with direct access to the Buscavidas beach. Capacity for six people.
The Houses of the Sea Lighthouse
T: (297) 437-4427
Cabins for five people and double bedrooms, located on a high hill overlooking the sea.
Patagonian Soul
Rock and Road. T: (297) 422-2270
Restaurant that works in a typical Patagonian house that was a hotel. Its owner also has cabins in the town.
blue wind
270 San Martin. T: (0297) 463-8040. IG: @windblueexcursions
From October to April they offer the following excursions: Islas Blancas with sighting of marine fauna, especially dolphins; Leones island and lighthouse; Cabo Dos Bahías (which protects a colony of Magellanic penguins), boat fishing and visit to the Patagonian estancia of the Fundación Rewilding Argentina. They also have cabins, a beachfront house, and a cottage for rent.
Peron Museum
Road 467. T: 0297-4963014. [email protected]
The Museo de la Familia Perón reflects the experiences of former president Juan Domingo Perón in Camarones, in the first decades of the 20th century. Tuesday to Saturday from 12pm. at 6 p.m. Sundays and holidays from 2:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. Closed Monday.
Bustamante Bay
T: (11) 4156-7788. High prices.
Alghero village converted into a tourist village. They receive in the original houses of managers and employees, recovered as “sea houses” (with full board and activities) and “steppe houses” (where only accommodation is contracted and meals in the restaurant or specific excursions can be reserved). Navigations, horseback riding and an excellent menu of outings within the establishment.
Reference-www.lanacion.com.ar